DMX-512 RGB LED Wash Light Control Board
A full featured driver board to control Red, Green, & Blue LEDs. When paired with the correct output board, it can control any arrangement of LEDs. Common Cathode, Common Anode, single color LEDs. From 1/8 watt LEDs to 3 watt LED arrangements.
4 stand-alone modes. Fade & Flash with speed adjustment via potentiometer. Manual color select via the same potentiometer. Sound reactivity with sensitivity adjustment and secondary adjustment.
Full DMX-512 addressing. Connect to a DMX Controller or a DMX computer program. 5 channels for Red, Green, Blue, Function, Speed.
Easy to control, a 3 position switch, a potentiometer for adjustment, and another potentiometer for sound sensitivity. 10 position DIP switch, 1-9 for DMX address, DIP 10 is for standalone controls.
With the supplied breakout boards, upwards of 40 watts per color channel can be achieved.
Shown below is a 36 Watt RGB LED Wash Light built using this driver.
*Note some of the images show the V.1 PCB, and the diagrams show the V.2, the only difference is trace width and RHEO&MIC share a 3-pin header instead of two 2-pin headers.
UPDATE: This kit is discontinued, Please View my new DMX-512 LED Controller with LED Display. All of the same features except sound reaction, in a smaller, cheaper, easier to use form.
Layout the Parts
If not all the parts are required, ex. No DIP Switch, XLRs, sound control
Please Contact Me and I can put together a customized Kit.
– PIC 16F688, programmed
– PIC 16F88, programmed
– 20 mhz Series Oscillator
– 8-pin socket
– 14-pin socket
– 18 pin socket
– 10 position DIP Switch, DMX address selection
– Triple Pole Triple Pole Switch, Stand-Alone Mode Selection
– 15x 10k 1/4w Resistors
– 1x 1k ohm 1/4w resistor, R2
– 7805, TO-220 Voltage Regulator
– 1x 1uF 100v Capacitor, C1
– 1x 1uF 25v Capacitor, C2
– 2x 10uF capacitor, C6 & C7
– 2x 0.1uF disc Capacitor, C4 & C3
– 1x Panel Mount Male XLR
– 1x Panel Mount female XLR
– 1x Electret Microphone
– 1x 10k ohm Logarithmic Potentiometer
– 1x Common Cathode RGB LED for Testing.
– 1x 2-pin Header & Housing
– 2x 3-pin Header & Housing
– 1x 4-pin Header & Housing
– 1x 6-pin header & Housing
– 1x 12-pin Header & housing
– A Breakout board, chosen for the correct use. Just Ask
Or a different form of current regulation that accepts TTL PWM, such as BuckPlus Line
Resistors and Sockets
• R1 is 10k ohm, Brown – Black – Orange – Gold
• R2 is 1k ohm mounted vertically, Brown – Black – Red – Orange
• R7 – R21 Are all 10k ohm 1/4w, Brown – Black – Orange – Gold
There is a 16 pin, 14 pin and 8 pin socket to place. Align the notch on the socket to the notches on the top-side illustration.
• Carefully align the pins with their holes, check all the pins will go in and press the socket in firmly.
Oscillator and Capacitors
– Find the 20mhz oscillator and solder it into OSC. It has no polarity but Make sure its a good solder joint.
Capacitors Next.The top-side illustration shows their polarity, the black solid stripe is the negative lead.
– Find the two 1uF caps that will be soldered into C1 & C2. They do have polarity, the side with the stripe is the negative lead.
– Place the two 10uF capacitors next. C6 & C7. Again mind the polarity.
– Finally place a 0.1uF disc capacitor in C3 & C4. They have no polarity and can go in either way.
A mistake was made on the part naming and there is no C5.
Polarized headers allows wires to be plugged and unplugged from the PCB easily. This project has a lot of switches, potentiometers, mic, that aren’t on the board and have wires running to them. The wires are connected to crimps and the crimps are slid into the housings, more details on Step 6
Depending on kit variation some or all of these headers may be included. They are not necessary but make things easier. With out them the wires of the switches ect will need to soldered directly onto the board, making installation harder.
I would recommend to try not to use a header and just solder the wires in directly to the PCB where possible.
There is an illustration of how the headers should be placed on the board. They have a polarized friction lock so a switch or voltage input cannot be plugged in backwards later.
There is a 12-pin, 6-pin, 3-pin, and 3x 2-pin headers to solder.
Press them firmly in, flush with the PCB and start soldering. Careful not to bridge solder joints.
– The 12-pin is for the 10-position DIP switch for DMX Address Selection and Mode Select.
– The 6-pin header is for the Mode Switch and Speed Potentiometer.
– The 3-pin is for XLR hook-ups
– A 2-pin header labled PWR is for voltage input, polarity marked on the PCB
*UPDATE: The polarity markings are reversed on the PCB
– The last two 2-pin headers are for sound input(rheostat and microphone), it is optimal to not install these headers and to wire the rheostat and mic directly PCB.
For more detail: DMX-512 RGB LED Wash Light Control Board using PIC16F688